When did skincare become so complicated?
Back in the day, you cleansed, toned, and moisturized, and that was that. Now, some women begin every morning with a 16-step routine that includes facial exercises and gua sha. But is this kind of self-care necessary or excessive? What products work and which ones don’t?
To help cut through the noise, we turned to the internet’s favorite dermatologist, Shereene Idriss, MD. Her honest product reviews and science-backed tips on how to nurture the body’s largest organ have made the board-certified expert a star on TikTok and Instagram. And now, she’s answering some of the skincare questions we’ve received from you, the readers of our weekly wellness newsletter Body and Soul.
What’s the right regimen for taking care of mature skin? – Debbie
Dr. Idriss: First and foremost, age is not a skin type! The first thing you should do when building a routine for yourself is identify your biggest skin issue, whether that’s discoloration, an uneven skin tone, redness, fine lines, wrinkles, or dryness.
There are, however, some universal truths in life, and menopause is one of them. This is usually what we’re talking about when we reference “mature skin.” With menopause comes a decrease in estrogen, which affects our skin in a few different ways, including wrinkles, sagging, increased sun spots, skin sensitivity, and dryness — basically a melting pot of problems.
But with the majority of my patients, one issue presents itself more prominently as the first sign of aging, and that is an uneven skin tone. Getting consistent with a multi-ingredient skincare routine with brightening ingredients is the best thing you can do for your skin. Ingredients like alpha arbutin, tranexamic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide, kojic acid, licorice root, and, of course, vitamin C.
What are the benefits of using a “light mask”? Would you recommend using one consistently? – Maria
Red light therapy masks work by emitting low-level wavelengths of red light to increase the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate, an energy carrying molecule that fuels the cell). This jumpstarts collagen production, helping with fine lines and wrinkles and reduces inflammation. In order to see results, they need to be used consistently, every single night. But overall, something is better than nothing.
I am a 60+ woman. Do I need to buy pricey facial moisturizers? I’ve heard that inexpensive brands are just as effective. – Anita
You want to look for moisturizers that go beyond just hydration. It’s not about cost, as you can definitely find great products at a lower price point. Look for a moisturizer with active ingredients that will actually treat your skin’s issue in the process.
For example, my Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal is formulated with THD ascorbate, a vitamin C ester, as well as other ingredients like Hexapeptide-2 to help with pigmentation and collagen production, in turn evening out your skin tone and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Another example is Eucerin’s Coenzyme Q10 moisturizer, which has antioxidant and collagen stimulating properties. Both of these moisturizers are great options for your skin problems.
Do facial exercises have positive impacts on our aging faces? – Heather
Facial exercises will not have any long lasting benefits for “aging” faces — aka sagging skin. Can it make a difference in the short term? Sure, it can help with some lymphatic drainage, but it doesn’t have any long-term benefits. When it comes to sagging skin, you want to look towards in-office treatments.
As I age, I’m noticing an increase in broken blood vessels on my face, including many near my eyes. Is there a safe procedure for reducing them? – Karla
Vbeam is a great treatment to help with broken blood vessels, but it’s not a cure. As long as your heart is beating, those broken blood vessels will come back. But over time, it can minimize their appearance and the transient redness.
Eye bags: Do I continue to (try to) ignore them, or should I consider fixing them? And next: How do we fix them? – Kristin
Transient puffiness due to lymphatic fluid buildup from allergies, crying, or eating too much salt can be treated. I actually created The Depuffer, an arnica-based serum married to a roller to depuff your eyes and your face. Personally, I wake up super puffy every morning, to the point where I can’t even open my lids, and this product is like Spanx for my eyes! Within 15 minutes, the puffiness and redness is gone.
But puffiness under the eyes can also be due to a permanent problem, which is known as herniated fat pads. No eye cream will ever get rid of this, and the only thing that can fix it is surgery. However, if you have the right anatomy, under-eye filler can kind of mask it. It will never get rid of it entirely, though.
