A beauty expert tells us how to check the label for the good stuff.
The beauty world is full of trends: bright-colored eyeliner, vampire facials, lash lift, and so much highlighter. It’s plenty of fun to experiment with makeup and low-key in-office procedures, but when it comes to improving your skin in the long-term, it can be tough to figure out which products will actually deliver on their promises. How can you fight crinkles around your eyes? How can you even out your skin tone and fade sun spots?
We asked skincare expert Marcia Kilgore, founder of Bliss Spas and Beauty Pie, to tell us which ingredients you should be hunting for in the quest for fresher, happier skin — the kind that’ll last long after the latest eyeliner style has gone out of fashion.
Bakuchiol
This is a newer skincare ingredient that’s getting lots of attention. It often gets touted as a natural alternative to retinol, because its benefits are very similar: it helps increase collagen production and cell turnover within the skin, and can also help treat pigmentation and soften fine lines. If you’re looking for a gentler alternative to retinol, seeking out products containing bakuchiol is a smart move. Beauty Pie has it in our Plantastic Sleep Oil — you only need a few drops each night to notice softer, brighter and more nourished-looking skin.
Collagen
This isn’t a new ingredient but it’s getting quite a lot of air time right now. People are still debating the “does it work or doesn’t it” question. But it absolutely does: Studies that show taking collagen supplements can improve skin elasticity and signs of aging like wrinkles. (It can also increase density in bones, too.) I’m a big believer in collagen — it’s a protein that makes up around 80% of your skin, so it makes sense to bolster your collagen supplies as much as possible. But, like most supplements, you have to stick with it. Our amazing Beauty Pie nutritionist, Kay Ali, explains that we sourced our marine collagen ingredient from the best human clinical trial available: “The researchers were able to demonstrate that at 10g a day after just four weeks of supplementation, dermal collagen deposition significantly increased and, by eight weeks, skin hydration increased, too. This is what sets us apart from other collagen supplements on the market.”
Power Couples
This might be cheating because it’s not one but two ingredients. There’s a real trend for “Power Couple” ingredients now. It’s the idea that some things work better in combination, each bringing out the best in the other. One of my favorite summer combinations is niacinamide with glycolic acid. Why? Because glycolic acid is amazing at preventing pores from clogging and keeping the skin’s surface clear and healthy (even more important in summer when it’s hotter and your skin can get oilier, and things like pollution can stick to it like glue) — and niacinamide is super-soothing, providing instant calming after any kind of skin-resurfacing. If your skin is oily or breaking out, apply it daily. Or try it as a treatment a few times a week if your skin is combination or dry.
Which classic ingredients have stood the test of time?
You can’t go wrong with what Dr. Andrew Markey, Beauty Pie’s Consultant Dermatologist in Residence, refers to as your “ABC plus SPF.” That stands for vitamin A (also known as retinol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and vitamin C.
They’re time-honored for a reason: because they really make a difference to the health of your skin. There’s science to back them up, but also you can see the results in your face. Dr. Markey refers to retinol as his “wow” molecule, but not all retinoids are the same. I believe in using encapsulated or slow-release retinol that infiltrates the skin slowly, releasing its incredible anti-aging, anti-pigmentation powers without causing irritation.
Niacinamide is all about soothing, so it’s a great thing to have in your routine — especially to balance out some of the more potent actives you might be using. And vitamin C is the ultimate glow-giver, for a bright, radiant and healthy-looking complexion. Incorporate each three of these somewhere in your skincare routine and you’re good to glow.
