The famous butcher fills us in on everything from grilling methods to his seasoning technique.
An argument has been heating up on the internet about how to best cook a burger. Should you squish it halfway through? Should there be a dent in the middle of your pattie? Should you *gasp* boil your burger? And of course, there’s the age-old debate about what goes on the perfect burger. To get the answer to these questions and more, we turned to the man responsible for many of your burgers: famous butcher Pat LaFrieda.
Since the LaFrieda family has been in the meat business since 1800, we asked him for his favorite burger tips and tricks. From the grill to the cast iron, LaFrieda dispensed invaluable advice about everything you’ll need to upgrade your burger game.
Speaking of games, LaFrieda is prepping to serve up sandwiches at this year’s marquee culinary event at the US Open, The Flavors Of The Open, which will be held on August 24 at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. LaFrieda will be joined by culinary icons Alex Guarnaschelli, Kwame Onwuachi, Melba Wilson, Masahuru Morimoto, James Kent, Josh Capon, and David Burke.
So how did LaFrieda become famous for his burger patties? Don’t worry — he doesn’t recommend investing in a pretentious, expensive, burger-cooking gadget that will only take up space in your kitchen. Instead, he focuses on simple, solid techniques, seasonings you have in your pantry, and the importance of enjoying your perfect burger with loved ones.
Katie Couric Media: What’s a smash burger and how is it different from a regular burger?
Pat LaFrieda: Generally, a regular burger is done on a grill with a live flame underneath it. The burger is already in patty form, seasoned, and placed on the grill to cook to the desired temperature. A smash burger is generally done on a griddle or in a hot cast iron pan. It isn’t formed — instead, it’s placed onto the cooking surface as a “meatball” and then “smashed” or pressed into the desired thickness. The burger is then cooked to the desired temperature. The result of this process is more caramelization of the meat protein, which results in a “crispier” burger.
Please explain how to properly make burger patties.
My idea of the proper way to cook a burger patty is by preheating your grill or cast iron pan. Season the burger patty on both sides before cooking. Then, place the cold patty onto the hot surface and cook it to a desired temperature. I like to flip the burger just once and avoid pressing it during the cooking process, since we want as much of the natural juice to stay in the burger. After cooking, let the burger rest for a few minutes to let the juices redistribute throughout the patty. Then enjoy.
How long should you cook a burger?
On the stove and BBQ, I like my burgers to be cooked to medium. To accomplish this, I cook them for approximately 6 minutes on each side (12 minutes total).
How do you feel about people putting non-meat ingredients in the raw burger meat before cooking?
As a butcher, I’m all about keeping the flavor and integrity of the meat at the forefront. With my burgers, I don’t add other ingredients to them. Instead, I like to try to incorporate different cuts of meat to come up with a unique blend, always keeping the flavor of the meat in mind.
How should you season a burger?
Apply traditional kosher salt and pepper before the cooking process starts. Making sure to season both sides.
Should people squish the burger midway through cooking?
Not unless you’re making a smash burger. Pressing the burger allows the burger to release its natural juices, which results in a dry burger.
Do you believe in changing the temperature of the grill/stove throughout the burger cooking process?
No, I cook the burger on a constant high-heat cooking surface.
What are the essential condiments that should go on a burger?
I’m a huge fan of cherry tomatoes, arugula, mayonnaise, and your choice of cheese. Although I do understand the popularity of standard lettuce, tomato, and onion. I must say it’s always great to add a thick-cut piece of LaFrieda bacon.
Is there anything you’d never put on a burger?
Throughout my career — working with so many different chefs — I’ve tried many different kinds of burgers. I’ve yet to find one that I don’t like — that being said, the best burger in my opinion is a simple burger where you let the flavors of the meat do the talking and enjoy a meal with friends and family.
