Plus, his thoughts on the NY restaurant scene.
Katie and John are super-fans of Barbuto, the NYC restaurant run by chef Jonathan Waxman that began serving up modern Italian food in 2004. (In fact, it was the site of their very first date.) They’re certainly not the only ones: New York Times food critic Pete Wells recently gave the restaurant a glowing review, the kind most food-world veterans dream of.
Running Barbuto hasn’t been the simplest road: In 2019, Waxman decided to close its doors amid an issue with the building’s new owner. Then he reopened the restaurant nearby, to much excitement from the neighborhood… in February 2020. It was closed for much of the pandemic, then reopened yet again in October 2021, prompting shouts of joy from the city’s foodies. Now its latest incarnation has been designated as a Critic’s Pick by none other than Pete Wells (who calls Barbuto’s chicken and accompanying side of potatoes “one of the greatest meals the city offers”).
We checked in with Waxman to see how it feels to get a thumbs-up from the venerated paper, and tried to get him to reveal a secret behind his notoriously delicious chicken.
How do great reviews like this impact the restaurant?
One hopes they’ll augment and generate more traffic. Truthfully, Barbuto does have a very robust following, but we really appreciate the extra business. It’s so wonderful to have the validation of such a prestigious newspaper. The review has heightened the enthusiasm of my team and partners; it goes a long way to help make everyone happy.
Do reviews like these change the number of customers you see per week?
I hope so! We’ve not been reviewed in the Times in a long time, and we’re excited to see how it goes.
Aside from closures and mask enforcement, what are the biggest hurdles in running a restaurant during this peculiar time?
Staffing shortages and supply chain issues are our main challenges.
You’ve been working in the NYC restaurant scene for quite a while—do you think it’s improved over the last several years?
I think in my almost 40 years in NY, things are radically different! The amazing sense of diversity, strength in new talent, plus veneration of institutions, and pure excitement about food and wine; all these developments are dynamic and special. They enhance the very special place that New York is.
How many roast chickens do you typically serve per week?
HA! Trade secret, but more than you can shake a stick at!
