The worst part about stepping out of a warm shower — aside from having to brace for the cool air — is coming face to face with just how much hair you need to remove from the drain. While shedding is normal (experts say losing anywhere from 50 to 150 hairs a day is to be expected), there may come a point when you start to notice that you’re losing more than that on a regular basis, especially as you age. And hair thinning isn't the only change you may be noticing: Hormonal fluctuations can make for hair that's frizzier, coarser, or drier than it used to be — as well as scalp issues like tightness and flaking.
Before we get into the science of it all, we turned to our go-to source for encouragement and hair expertise for some words of wisdom to ease any anxiety: “There’s so much messaging out there that tells women to fear aging,” Queer Eye’s Jonathan Van Ness, hairstylist and founder of JVN, tells us. “We are lucky to be here, so let’s try to find ways to enjoy who we are, and let go of rigid beauty expectations.”
Preach.
But even Van Ness understands that good vibes and pep talks alone aren't always enough: The physical manifestations of perimenopause or menopause can be confounding, isolating, and identity-challenging. So, as a part of our Timeless Beauty Awards, we spent months testing products, consulting experts, and evaluating what actually works for changing hair. And understanding what’s happening underneath it all is the first step toward building a routine that works.
Why does hair change as you age?
The main culprit behind changing hair is hormones, which is pretty much the reason for most major shifts as we age. According to Iris Rubin, MD, dermatologist and co-founder and chief medical officer of SEEN, estrogen and progesterone decline during perimenopause and menopause, while androgens become relatively more dominant, and all of these situations can directly affect the hair follicle.
“The scalp is skin, and hair follicles are literally the manufacturing plant for the hair. So when hormones fluctuate, both the scalp and the follicles are affected,” she says. “When you're younger, estrogen is actively protecting follicles, prolonging the growth phase, and suppressing the androgen most directly responsible for follicle miniaturization. When estrogen falls, that protection is withdrawn.”
This means that hormonal variations not only impact your scalp health, but also the lengths of your hair growth and shedding cycles. She explains that many women notice increased shedding before they have any visible thinning, because the hair sheds last for longer periods.
Your scalp tissue can also become drier and thinner as estrogen declines, since that hormone supports collagen production. (That's the same reason you may notice the skin on your face beginning to sag or be more dehydrated, too.) This can also lead to greater scalp reactivity, causing dryness, irritation, flaking, or sensitivity to products that may have never caused issues before.
What are the most common haircare mistakes women over 40 make (and how can they be avoided)?
The main mistake Dr. Rubin sees her patients make is not washing their hair enough, due to the belief that shampooing causes hair loss. “A clean, healthy scalp is essential to healthy hair,” Dr. Rubin says. She also warns against using a heavy hand with dry shampoo, as it can cause scalp buildup and clog follicles, thereby impeding hair growth.
If you color your hair, Van Ness notes that while permanent dye lasts longer, it’s also more damaging. Permanent color makes hair more fragile, and can also make your hairline look “inky” from frequent root coloring, because the fine hairs closest to your hairline hold dye more aggressively than the ones further back. “Ask your colorist to use semi- or demi-permanent dye to blend your roots, instead of aiming for full coverage,” he says. “It grows out so much softer and lightens more easily than permanent color.”
Another tip? “Embrace your natural texture,” he says. “You’ll spend so much less time worrying about keeping your hair smooth, especially if you have natural curls and live in a humid climate.”
When should women see a dermatologist for hair thinning or hair loss?
Again, some shedding is normal, but if you’re noticing a widening part, visible scalp, or significant changes in thickness, it’s worth heading to the dermatologist. Factors like your thyroid, iron levels, nutrition, medication, stress, and prescriptions can also affect your hair, so it’s always a good idea to check in with your primary care provider, too.
“You don’t need to wait for dramatic loss,” Dr. Rubin says. “If thinning is bothering you, that itself is a reason enough to see a board-certified dermatologist. The most important thing is timing: Early intervention is key.”
From there, a dermatologist can recommend evidence-backed treatments, including topical or oral minoxidil, red light therapy, or prescription medication.
What ingredients and products support aging hair?
As hair becomes drier and more fragile with age, experts recommend focusing less on quick cosmetic fixes and more on scalp health and strengthening ingredients. The common theme here? A healthy scalp equals healthy hair, and your scalp tends to become more sensitive during hormonal transitions.
Avoiding harsh or buildup-prone ingredients (like silicones, sodium lauryl sulfate, and bleach if you color your hair, Van Ness says) is a smart step. And at the drugstore, keep an eye out for hydrating components like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, and squalene in your shampoos, conditioners, serums, and other hair products.
How can you style thinning hair after 40 for volume, fullness, and movement?
When hair becomes finer and thinner, strategic styling can make a major difference in how full it looks. “Shorter hair will always appear fuller,” Van Ness says. “Think bobs, shags, and pixies.” If you find that you have especially sparse spots, he recommends Toppik’s blending powder to help camouflage any scalp that might be showing.
For maximizing volume while styling, incorporate products like mousse and thickening sprays. And on wash day, your blow-drying technique is what really seals the deal: “Take the nozzle off when you’re drying your hair,” says Van Ness. “Without that nozzle, you can really pump up the volume.” Another tip: Don’t immediately brush your hair flat while drying. “Avoid smoothing or straightening with a brush until your hair is about 70 to 80 percent dry, otherwise it can fall flat.”
To ensure volume sticks around, Van Ness recommends using Velcro rollers to set hair as it cools. Between washes, he uses dry shampoo to soak up excess oil and add volume — but as Dr. Rubin warned, don’t be too heavy-handed, as this product can irritate your scalp.
And if your hair suddenly feels more brittle than it used to? Lean into repair and protection. “As the hair becomes finer, it can break more easily with heat,” Van Ness says — which makes lightweight heat protectants and bond-building treatments especially important.
Timeless Beauty Awards: Best Hair Products for Women Over 40
Best Detox Shampoo: K18 Peptide Prep
K18
About once a week, swap your regular shampoo for one that’s specifically designed to clear away buildup and oil, like this one from K18. Salicylic acid and activated charcoal work together in this formula, all without stripping your hair and scalp of its natural oils. The formula also contains peptides, which reduce protein loss in hair, keeping your strands healthy and strong long after wash day.
Best Shampoo for Shedding Hair: Neutrogena Hair Restore
Amazon
Designed with the guidance of dermatologists to focus on restoring the scalp’s health (and therefore improving hair health), this affordable shampoo from Neutrogena uses hydrolyzed collagen, mandelic acid, and gentle surfactants to remove buildup while minimizing breakage-related shedding. It’s free from any irritating sulfates, dyes, parabens, or phthalates, too.
Best Conditioner for Curly Hair: Pattern Beauty Intensive Conditioner
Pattern
Curly and coily hair textures often struggle to retain moisture due to lower porosity (i.e., a more tightly packed cuticle), which is why they benefit from an intensive conditioner. Ingredients like avocado oil, shea butter, and safflower oil help soften hair, seal in moisture, and reduce dryness and breakage, while acacia decurrens flower extract supports curl definition and manageability after rinsing.
Best Purple/Gray Shampoo for Dull Hair: Olaplex No. 4P Blonde Enhancer Toning Shampoo
Olaplex
If your hair tends to look brassy, a shampoo specifically formulated for brightening hair is worth a shot. Olaplex’s concentrated formula uses violet pigments to counteract unwanted yellow tones through color correction. (The subtle tint the shampoo leaves behind helps blonde and gray hair appear more balanced.) The formula also relies on coconut oil-derived surfactants that gently cleanse the hair while maintaining hydration.
Best Hair Mask/Deep Conditioner for Dry Hair: Kérastase Nutritive Masquintense Riche Hair Mask
Kérastase
For extremely thirsty tresses, a deep-conditioning mask is the way to go. Applying it a couple of times a week will help smooth and detangle strands while also restoring moisture. A combination of plant-based proteins (which help replenish hair nutrients) and niacinamide strengthens the hair barrier and locks in hydration. In clinical trials, Kérastase’s formula was 89 percent more hydrating than a non-conditioning shampoo, resulting in 98 percent stronger hair, too.
Best Leave-In Conditioner for Aging Hair: Davines OI All in One Milk
Davines
For a product that keeps working after you get out of the shower, consider a leave-in spray that doubles as a heat protectant. This one from Davines is lightweight and designed to hydrate, detangle, and control frizz while adding luster. Apply it to towel-dried hair before styling, and it’ll help protect against heat damage up to 446°F. The formula’s main ingredient, roucou oil, counteracts the effects of environmental stress while also boosting smoothness and shine. “I’ve been using this light yet transformative leave-in since 2020,” associate editor Diana Valenzuela says. “It somehow smooths my naturally very frizzy hair without weighing it down into the ‘drowned rat’ look.”
Best Root Touch-Up for Graying Hair: Toppik Hair Building Fibers
Toppik
A personal favorite of Van Ness, this touch-up powder not only covers grays near the root but also gives the illusion of fuller hair by binding tiny keratin fibers to your hair, making strands thicker. It works instantly, using a static charge to help conceal sparse areas, camouflage roots between color appointments, and add fullness around part lines or extensions. The lightweight fibers resist humidity, sweat, and wind, but they wash out easily with shampoo, so you don’t have to worry about excessive buildup between washes.
Best Heat Protectant for Dry or Damaged Hair: Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser's Invisible Oil
Bumble and Bumble
Protecting your hair when heat-styling — even just blow-drying — is a highly worthwhile step. Beloved by hairstylists, Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Primer is a heat protectant designed to hydrate, smooth, and prep hair before styling. Apply it to damp hair to help detangle, reduce frizz, and shield from heat damage (up to 450°F). It also protects against UV-related dryness and color fading.
Best Hair Volumizer for Thinning Hair: Crown Affair The Air Dry Texturizing Air Dry Mousse
Crown Affair
A few pumps of Crown Affair's weightless texturizing product enhance waves, curls, and body without the crunch so often associated with thick mousses. The formula uses ultra-fine Bolivian pink salt to create texture and lift, while tsubaki oil helps replenish moisture — so hair feels hydrated, rather than dry or gritty. A plant protein blend supports the hair shaft, helping improve softness while maintaining hold. Commerce editor Katie Pittman has been using this formula for months: “Hair wash day is already a chore for me, and with a perm, I can't really skimp on mousse unless I want limp, frizzy waves,” she says. “On days when I can't be bothered to diffuse my hair for 45 minutes straight, I use a few pumps of Crown Affair's amazing-smelling texture foam, rough-dry my roots, and leave the rest to air-dry. It gives my curls soft bounce and volume.”
Best Hair Serum for Growth: Nutrafol Hair Serum
Nutrafol
We sound like a broken record at this point, but we can't overemphasize the importance of a healthy scalp. Nutrafol’s treatment is designed to support the appearance of thicker, stronger-feeling hair by improving conditions at the root. The formula combines scalp-stimulating ingredients like ashwagandha exosomes, Irish moss peptides, and maca to help fortify hair at the root and promote a fuller appearance over time. Hydrating and balancing ingredients like sea buckthorn, tea tree, kelp, and niacinamide help maintain a healthier scalp environment, which can reduce breakage.
Best Dry Shampoo for Aging Hair: Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray
Amazon
Unfortunately, many "effortless" hair looks do require effort, but it doesn’t have to be tiresome or time-consuming. Designed to add volume, texture, and a lived-in, tousled finish, Oribe’s texturizing spray easily gives that “I woke up like this” appearance. It uses zeolite crystallines (teeny volcanic rock crystals) to create grit and lift, improving shape and volume without heaviness or stiffness. While it’s primarily a texturizing spray, it can also function as a dry shampoo by absorbing excess oil at the roots, refreshing styles between washes, and restoring volume.
Best Hair Gloss for Dull Hair: JVN Rapid Repair Bond Gloss
Sephora
After searching for products that focused on hair health rather than just its appearance, Van Ness created his own line, powered by clean ingredients. This in-shower treatment delivers a salon-style glow while addressing damage — and it only takes 60 seconds to use. It uses ProPlex+ technology to help restore weakened keratin bonds and improve the structural integrity of over-processed hair. By helping reinforce these bonds, the formula reduces breakage and improves overall strand strength over time.
It also smooths the hair cuticle, the outer layer of the hair shaft, allowing light to reflect more evenly for an immediate “glass-like” finish. This cuticle-smoothing action helps reduce the appearance of split ends and increases silkiness and manageability. Clinical testing showed an 81 percent increase in shine, a twofold reduction in split ends, and a 47 percent reduction in breakage after a single use compared to untreated hair.
Best Textured/Curl Cream for Aging Hair: Melanin Twist-Elongating Style Cream
Sephora
To prevent damage, use a cream to reduce friction whenever you’ll be twisting, braiding, or slicking back your strands. This pick hydrates and seals hair, making it easier to maneuver. By applying Melanin’s cream one section at a time while styling, it’ll create a gentle hold while nourishing and smoothing. Argan oil and vitamin E work as antioxidants to support hair health and enhance shine and long-term softness.
Best Scalp Scrub for Flaky Hair: Briogeo Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo
Briogeo
Extremely fine charcoal and cellulose work together in this gentle exfoliating treatment, to literally scrub away flakes and dryness without irritating the scalp. With hydrating coconut oil and stimulating tea tree, peppermint, and spearmint oils, Briogeo’s Scalp Revival showed an 82 percent reduction in flaking in clinical studies, as well as a 2x increase in scalp hydration. KCM editor Diana Valenzuela says it’s been one of her holy-grail beauty items for years. “This creamy shampoo exfoliates my scalp, which has a tendency toward dry flakiness — cute, right? When my head needs a fresh, minty-scented detox, this product delivers.”
Best Scalp Detox for Aging Hair: Act + Acre Scalp Detox Oil
Act + Acre
Think of this as a spa day for your scalp. Act + Acre’s 20-minute pre-wash scalp treatment is formulated with 1.28 percent baobab oil, which helps dissolve excess sebum, sweat, and product buildup while delivering deep hydration to the scalp. Breaking down residue before shampooing ensures clear follicles, allowing the scalp to better regulate oil and moisture balance. Baobab oil is rich in fatty acids that support a healthy moisture barrier, helping reduce dryness, itchiness, and flaking.
After months of struggling with scalp irritation, editor Katie Pittman said this was the only thing that helped clear her skin. “About a year ago I had the worst scalp irritation I have ever experienced in my life: Nickel-sized chunks of dry skin were flaking off,” she says. “Even when I had a steroid prescribed by my dermatologist, the irritation persisted. I finally took a visit to Helen Reavy — trichologist, founder of Act + Acre, and celeb hairstylist — and she used this detox on me after taking a close look at my scalp. Within days, the oil-rich formula had hydrated my head and soothed the itching, which allowed any raw spots to heal without issues.”
Best Hair Dye: L'Oreal Paris Excellence Crème Permanent Hair Dye
Amazon
Using permanent hair dye isn’t ideal for hair health, but if you prefer it to a semi- or demi-permanent formula, make sure it’s as gentle as possible. This one from L’Oreal is available at the drugstore, and it’s full of hyaluronic acid, which helps attract and retain moisture in the hair fiber, reducing the dryness often associated with chemical processing. It deposits pigment while conditioning, helping maintain smoothness and more resilience during color development.
Best Scalp SPF: Sunbum Scalp & Hair Mist
Sunbum
Dr. Rubin notes that the scalp is an easy place to forget when we’re applying SPF, but it’s also one of the most important to cover. As with any exposed skin, repeated UV damage can lead to skin cancer, so it’s important to spritz on some SPF (or throw on a hat) anytime you'll be in the sun. The precise nozzle on this Sunbum bottle ensures you don’t end up with sunscreen all over your head, which could lead to greasy hair or clogged follicles, and it’s water-resistant for up to 80 minutes.
Best Hairspray for Thinning Hair: Kenra Professional Volume Spray
Amazon
If you’ve ever spent 45 minutes styling your hair only to have humidity, wind, or gravity immediately humble you, a strong hairspray becomes less of a luxury and more of a survival tool. For hold that doesn’t veer into helmet territory, Kenra’s formula stood out from the pack. It keeps styles intact without crunchiness or flakes, adds a little extra lift to limp roots, and somehow remains brushable after drying. The brand also claims it’s wind-resistant up to 25 MPH — a delightfully specific statistic that raises several questions about the testing process — but after trying it ourselves, we’re inclined to believe them.
Timeless Beauty Awards Methodology
Our selection process was intentionally rigorous and multi-layered, incorporating personal experience, medical expertise, and industry experts to highlight the best of the best in haircare. Informed by years of reporting on beauty, wellness, and aging, final product selections were made by Katie Couric and her editorial staff, and also include recommendations by a panel of trusted medical experts, professional makeup artists, and celebrity hairstylists.
