What is the wolf cut? An expert weighs in on how to style the popular style that’s a riff on an old ‘do.
Though we love the look of carefully done, pristine locks, there’s also something so attractive about a lived-in, wash-and-go hairstyle. That’s the appeal of the trendy “wolf cut”: This shaggy, choppy, layered hairdo has taken social media by storm in recent months, probably because it hits a perfect balance between “effortless” and “put together.”
Think this hairstyle is the sole property of TikTok teens? Think again — the wolf cut actually harkens back to retro shags and mullets of decades past. The trend has come back around and evolved into a style that’s surprisingly approachable for people of all ages. Curious about whether the wolf cut might be your new signature look? We spoke to veteran stylist Jayne Matthews about the ins and outs of the cut. As a salon co-owner and educator, Matthews has expert advice on how to make the trend work for you.
What is a wolf haircut?
You may have noticed right off the bat that the wolf cut looks like a vintage shag mixed with a touch of old-school mullet.
“The current wolf cut is comparable to a shag from the 90s,” Matthews confirms. “Think Meg Ryan or Jennifer Aniston, that kind of shaggy 90s cut — or even like Stevie Nicks in the 70s.”
Miley Cyrus’ wolf cut
Still, Matthews points out that a wolf cut isn’t a replica of those retro styles: “In the 70s, it was much messier and more rock ‘n roll, and in the 90s it was much more blown out or flippy. Today’s wolf cut is a little bit more lived-in. It’s a little bit choppier, a little bit pieceier, and a little more carved into. You can see each tendril. Also, the bangs are much more of a curtain bang — they have a part and are open.”
But old-school shags and contemporary wolf cuts have something very important in common: They’re fuss-free in a way that’s easy to do at home. “The 70s shag came from DIY,” Matthews says. “Stevie Nicks always cut her own hair. Mick Jagger cut his own hair. The wolf cut started from kids on TikTok giving themselves this haircut during the pandemic.”
What face shapes and hair types work with a wolf cut?
Are you curious about the wolf cut but afraid it won’t look good on your face shape? We have good news: According to Matthews, “There’s a wolf cut for every face type.” You can adjust the cut to complement your facial structure. “If you have a square face, you might wear the fringe a little bit longer to soften [the look]. If you have a round face, you might wear the pieces around your cheeks a little bit longer than the chin. The wolf cut can be tailored for all the different face types.”
Billie Eilish’s wolf cut
Things get trickier when you begin to talk about texture, though. Matthews says, “It can work for fine hair, but medium density to thick density is better. [The wolf cut] works for really straight straight hair. It also works for wavy hair or loose curls.”
If you have tight coils, not all hope is lost — you just won’t necessarily be able to attain the choppy look: “On tight curls, it would be more like a shag because the curling up would keep it from having that choppy effect. But it could still look really cool.”
Aside from those little details, the perk of the hairdo is its versatility: “There are ways to adjust it. You can leave the bangs a little longer. You can part it on the side and tuck it behind your ear. It can frame your cheekbones and be sort of flowy.”
Natasha Lyonne’s wolf cut
How do you ask for a wolf cut?
Despite the homegrown roots of the hairstyle, you don’t need to use kitchen scissors in your bathroom to get the effect. Matthews says you need to start from a foundation of strong visuals: “Bring photographs. Ask your stylist if they can create something similar that would work with your face shape and hair texture.”
Matthews clarifies that your stylist should be paying most attention to your bangs and crown: “Besides the fringe framing your eyes and cheekbones in a flattering way, the most important thing is the crown volume.”
Jenna Ortega’s wolf cut
Matthews mentions that your stylist should be able to work around your unique look: “If you wear glasses, you should leave the fringe long enough that it grazes the cheekbones and can tuck behind the ear. If you have a short forehead, no worries. If you have a cowlick, no worries. If your hair’s gray and coarse, no worries. Those things can still go with the cut with the right layering technique.”
How do you style a wolf cut?
If you hate spending serious time on your hair in the morning, you’ll be happy to hear that the wolf cut doesn’t require much styling.
“The whole beauty of shags, mullets, and wolf cuts is that they should be able to be air dried,” Matthews says. “And if you’re going to air dry, my suggestion is always to ditch foaming shampoo and use a co-wash cream cleanser. The one I like is New Wash by Hairstory. It makes the hair kind of feel like it’s two days dirty, but your scalp is clean. They also have a hair balm that’s like a satin-textured hair cream. It’s almost like hand lotion for the ends of your hair. It doesn’t leave it greasy or oily or sticky or crispy.”
Lizzo’s curly-haired wolf cut
Regardless of which products you use, Matthews stands by the advice that less is more: “I would stay away from blow dryers unless you just want to get a little bit of the water out. I tell my clients to wake up, spritz their hair down if it’s gotten crazy, tuck it behind their ear, scrunch, and go.”
If you need a lesson in letting go and embracing your natural hair texture and unique face shape, Matthews says the whole point of the wolf cut is to roll out of bed with a near-perfect look: “The wolf cut always looks best when it’s lived in. You can let it be.” Which leaves you with even more time to explore and discover your rock ‘n roll lifestyle.
