If your hands are feeling tight, itchy, or flaky lately, you’re not alone — plenty of us suffer from perpetual dry skin on our hands. And contrary to popular belief, this isn’t just a winter problem. While cold weather and low humidity certainly play a role, dry hands can strike in any season. From exposure to sun and wind to everyday contact with soap, hot water, and cleaning products, our hands are constantly under stress. Over time, all that wear and tear can strip away natural oils and damage the skin’s protective barrier, leading to that all-too-familiar roughness and discomfort.
To better understand what’s really going on — and how to re-nourish them — we spoke with Dr. Rolanda Wilkerson, a principal scientist at Olay with a passion for decoding skin science.
Dr. Wilkerson explained why hands are particularly vulnerable to dryness: Unlike other areas of the body, the skin on our hands contains fewer oil glands, meaning it doesn’t produce as much of the natural moisture that helps keep skin healthy. Fortunately, there are easy, expert-approved ways to repair and protect your skin. From the right hand cream to choose to how (and when) to apply it, Dr. Wilkerson shared smart, science-based tips to keep your hands soft and hydrated — every month of the year.
Katie Couric Media: Let’s talk about the science of skin. Can you explain what it’s made of and how it works?
Rolanda Wilkerson: Skin is really this amazing barrier between us and the outside world. It keeps the good stuff in — like moisture and nutrients — and keeps the bad stuff out. And by “bad stuff,” I mean everything from microbes, bacteria, and viruses to UV radiation, pollution, dirt, and harsh chemicals. It’s incredible that nature created something so complex and effective.
When we talk about the skin’s barrier function, we’re mostly referring to the outermost layers. These are made up of dead skin cells, which is actually a good thing — those layers are what helps your skin handle everyday wear and tear. Think of the skin like a brick-and-mortar structure: the skin cells are the bricks, and they’re held together by a mortar-like substance that’s oil-based. This combination helps keep your epidermis strong and waterproof.
How is the skin on our hands different from other body parts?
For one, the palms have no hair follicles, which means they don’t produce oil the way other areas do. Instead, they mostly produce sweat. That makes the skin on your hands naturally drier and less able to retain moisture, even before we consider things like handwashing or environmental exposure. So your hands are already at a disadvantage when it comes to staying hydrated.
With all of these layers, why do our hands get so dry from washing them, in particular?
Every time you wash your skin, even with just water, you start to strip away some of the natural oils on the surface. This effect becomes even more pronounced when you use soap or detergents. These cleansing agents can penetrate the upper layers of the skin and begin to break down that “mortar” we talked about — the oily substance that holds skin cells together and helps maintain the skin’s barrier.
Once that mortar is compromised, it becomes easier for other essential components of your skin to be washed away, too. Over time, this constant washing draws moisture out of the skin faster than it can be replenished.
Now, skin is naturally designed to lose a little bit of moisture and still bounce back. But when it’s exposed to frequent washing, that balance gets thrown off. The skin starts losing too much moisture, and those outer 10 to 20 layers begin to dry out. That’s when you start to see visible signs of damage — flakiness, rough texture, and even small cracks — because the skin’s structure is no longer intact.
What kind of moisturizing routine do you recommend?
After washing your hands, gently pat them dry, then apply a moisturizer right away, while your skin is still slightly damp.
The type of moisturizer you should choose depends on your daily routine. During the day, when you’re busy and using your hands a lot, you’ll probably want something lightweight that absorbs quickly and doesn’t leave a greasy residue. But at night, a thicker, richer cream can be more effective, especially if you wear cotton gloves to help it absorb while you sleep. Ideally, you should moisturize every time you wash your hands.
Are there any habits that can keep our skin moist, or ingredients people should keep in mind when shopping for a hand cream?
You can’t replace topical moisturizers just by drinking more water, but staying hydrated does matter. As a rule of thumb, if you’re feeling thirsty, you’re already slightly dehydrated. And yes, using a humidifier, especially in your bedroom, can help maintain moisture in the air and prevent your skin from drying out overnight.
When choosing a moisturizer, look for ingredients that not only hydrate but also help strengthen the skin barrier. Vitamin B3 — niacinamide — for example, has been shown in clinical studies to improve the skin’s resilience and ability to retain moisture. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are also excellent, because they attract and hold water in the skin, keeping it supple and hydrated throughout the day.
This interview has been edited and condensed.
