Experts say hair care routines aren’t a one-size-fits-all approach.
There’s a range of opinions out there about how often you should wash your hair. While some would never think of going more than a day without lathering up, others can’t imagine washing their hair more than once a week. So who’s right?
Dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, along with Seattle-based dermatologist Elizabeth Hughes and celebrity hairstylist Adir Abergel, shared their thoughts on this decades-long debate.
How often should you wash your hair?
Many experts recommend washing your hair every 2-3 days. This, of course, depends on your hair type and scalp needs. People with tight curls or textured hair should wash their hair no more than once a week or every other week, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Dr. Zeichner told us that washing any more than this can cause dryness and lead to breakage for those with this hair type.
The same thing goes for chemically treated hair: The less you wash it, the better. Dr. Hughes recommends shampooing every other day at most, but said some can go as long as seven or 10 days. It’s a matter of protecting the hair cuticle — the outermost part of the hair shaft. “Chemical processing damages the cuticle and makes it easier to harm the hair by other routine haircare practices,” Dr. Hughes said. “Using a lot of heat on the hair, such as blow-dryers or curling irons, can also damage the cuticle, but usually to a lower degree than a chemical processing.”
Straight hair, on the other hand, can be washed more frequently without necessarily risking damage or dryness. The cuticle is more smooth and intact on straight hair, meaning it’s less susceptible to damage. “It takes a lot more to damage and/or erode away the cuticle of straight hair than it does textured hair,” said Dr. Hughes.
Is it bad to wash your hair every day?
It has become trendier in recent years to go longer between washes, but washing your hair every day doesn’t necessarily have a negative impact, according to Dr. Zeichner. “It’s only bad to wash your hair every day if you’re experiencing dryness and irritation of the scalp, or any hair issues like worsening dryness, breakage, or negative effects on your hair color,” he said.
But Dr. Hughes said you have to be careful about throwing off your scalp’s natural oil production, which can potentially lead to more oiliness. ”When the skin senses that it has dried out, whether you’re talking about washing your face too much or washing your scalp too much, your skin is going to create more oil,” she explained.
What happens if you don’t wash your hair often?
While over-washing can strip natural oils from your hair, not washing your hair enough may lead to conditions like dandruff, itchy scalp, or ingrown hairs. What’s worse is that going too long without washing may get in the way of hair growth. “Inflammation in the scalp caused by conditions like dandruff can interfere with growth,” Dr. Zeichner said. “If you’re not washing your hair regularly and oil builds up in the scalp, dandruff may flare up.”
Then there’s the concern about odor. If you don’t wash frequently enough, oils and hair-care products can build up on your scalp, creating an unpleasant smell, even if the products you’re using smell good. That’s why if you work out or sweat every day, you should consider washing every day. Abergel, who’s also the creative director at hair-care line Virtue Labs, said more active lifestyles tend to attract more pollution, dirt, and oil.
Should you use dry shampoos or try “co-washing”?
If washing your hair every day isn’t your thing, then dry shampoos are a solid option for keeping your hair looking fresh. But Abergel recommends steering clear of ones that are texturizing and leave residue on your hair. “Dry shampoos sometimes have too many texturizers — they’ve become almost like stylers. So you want to find very clean, dry shampoos that really just absorb the oils versus over-texturizing the hair,” he said.
Other alternatives like “co-washing,” aka washing with just conditioner, have become increasingly popular. But Dr. Hughes believes this is the most beneficial for curly, wavy, or dry hair. There’s also rinsing with just water, which Dr. Hughes says can be just as effective as co-washing between shampoo days, unless you use styling products in your hair.
So what’s the bottom line?
The question of how often you should wash your hair really depends on hair type and lifestyle, both of which can change dramatically over time. Dr. Hughes said most of us form our hygiene habits when we’re teenagers and don’t typically adjust our hair-care needs over time.
“The point is that how often you should wash your hair differs not only from person to person, activity levels, or level of oiliness or things like that, but it also varies through time,” she said. “As we get older, in general, skin gets drier and washing frequently has more side effects, like increased drying. “
You might also want to reconsider what kind of shampoos you’re using. “Most people use the wrong shampoos and conditioners for their specific hair type,” Abergel said. “So understanding your hair type is incredibly important.” For instance, if you have fine hair, find a volumizing shampoo and avoid using conditioner near your scalp.
But salon-grade shampoos aren’t necessarily better — Dr. Hughes says her family stocks up drugstore products. “I don’t tend to think that salon products are demonstrably different or better,” she said. “There’s not an enormous, massive difference between them and what you’d find at the drugstore.”