Celery, scallions, and fresh herbs add pops of color and flavor.

It took me a long time to realize that potato salads, in their creamy, mayo-laden glory, are polarizing. That’s probably because 1) I love mayo, and 2) I grew up eating my mom’s version of potato salad — a vinegary, refreshing, Dijon-y number, just ever so slightly kissed with creaminess. She originally got the recipe from Julia Child, and the two of us have adapted it over the years until it’s become our Platonic ideal, ready to convert even those who are ambivalent or anti–potato salad. Is this a sexy dish? Maybe not. But I have to say, I do find it pretty chic.

A Chic! Potato Salad Recipe

Make ahead:

Dressed potatoes — up to 24 hours

Assembled salad — up to 2 days

Ingredients

3 pounds baby or small Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed
Kosher salt
¼ cup white wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
6 tablespoons good extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch celery, including any leaves
1 bunch scallions, or 2 large shallots
6 hard-boiled eggs
6 ounces cornichons
1 bunch fresh dill, parsley, or a mix (about 4 ounces)
1 lemon
¼ cup Dijon mustard
¼ cup mayonnaise (optional)

Instructions

In a large pot, combine the potatoes with ¾ cup salt. (Don’t freak out about the quantity of salt. It’s to properly season the potatoes—you will not be drinking the water!) Cover with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are fork-tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and 6 tablespoons of the olive oil until emulsified to make the dressing. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and and lots of pepper.
Drain the potatoes in a colander and let cool for about 10 minutes, until cool enough to handle. Halve the potatoes, or quarter them if larger, and place them in a large bowl. Drizzle with the dressing and give them a good toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight, tossing them a couple of times, if you remember.
When ready to assemble, remove the potatoes from the fridge and let them come to room temperature, about an hour (the oil may have solidified while it chilled).
Meanwhile, thinly slice the celery and scallions on the bias (if using shallots, mince them) and add them to the bowl with the potatoes. Finely chop the hard-boiled eggs, cornichons, herbs (reserving a big handful), and any celery leaves; add them to the bowl. Zest and juice the lemon into a small bowl, then whisk in the mustard and mayonnaise (if using). Pour over the potato mixture. Toss to combine, then season with more salt and lots of pepper to taste. The assembled salad can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Top with the reserved herbs and a glug of olive oil before serving.